Tuesday, December 6, 2011

December 5, 2011

Sigh…….our last night in New Orleans and we’re feeling a little blue…… Verna-Lee and I have both decided that we could stay another day or two but don’t worry readers…..we’re coming home.

Today was another interesting one and we’ve definitely moved into the pace of the Big Easy so we’re moving a little slower than we were when we first arrived.
Learned something new that you might find interesting…..an old beignet tradition that is still alive and well in New Orleans is that at engagement a bride and groom would share a beignet. The bride would blow the powdered sugar at the groom and the two of them would make a wish for their future together. A nice tradition!

After a leisurely morning of sleeping in and starting to pack up our cases, we tried to connect with some of the other girls but it seemed that everyone else had already gone out for the day….I guess we were a little late getting started…… It was definitely time for breakfast (or to tell the truth….lunch) so Verna-Lee and I took off to see what the French Quarter had in store for us today. Of course there was a little more shopping and the 2nd half of my reading with Catherina of New Orleans. There was also an abundance of “hellos” from workers relaxing on stoops along the sidewalks, and passers-by. People here are very friendly and the pace really is slow moving. I think it must be connected to the fact that it gets so hot and humid here. Today was a little taste of just how uncomfortable it might get here…..temperatures weren’t too high but the humidity was up there so we were sweating right from the moment we stepped out the door of the hotel.

We hadn’t seen Helena-Marie and Jenny-Ann for two days so were glad to have a message from them tonight when we got back to the hotel. The two of them spent today at the outlet mall about an hour northwest of here so had an adventure of their own. We’re not sure about Linda-Kay or Nancy A as we never did see them today but we do know where Val was as she spent some of the afternoon and the evening with Verna-Lee and I. The three of us ended up in a former brothel that is now a quaint little hide-away bar called May Bailey’s. It is in the Dauphine Orleans Hotel and that is somewhere that I would stay if/when I get back to this amazing city that has worked its way under my skin and into my soul. To give you a taste of just how friendly folks here are….the manager of the Dauphine Hotel (and keep in mind that we’re not staying there) went out onto the street to see if a couple of his favourite restaurants were open or had space for reservations after he had not been able to get through to them by phone. I really can’t explain just how busy it is here. Just as one convention leaves another one arrives and of course there is the constant stream of cruise ships, and New Orleans is a major shipping port, and then there are the tourists just passing through or staying to check out all the sights. Everywhere you go there are people, day and night there are people (definitely more on Bourbon St by night than by day!), seven days a week there are people…..it’s just a busy place and it’s hard to believe that it wasn’t that long ago that the city suffered such devastation when Katrina hit.

Tonight Val, Verna-Lee, and I had an amazing dinner across the street from the Dauphine Hotel at the Bayona Restaurant. It was definitely upscale with outstanding food and exemplary service. Service is something most places (especially the upscale ones) do very well here. Even at our hotel, the Sheraton, tonight…..our guest services clerk was happy to divide our room bill up however we wanted it even though it meant 4 times the work for her......nice!!!!

So…..we’re all checked out and ready for our early morning departure. Taxi will pick us up at 4:10 a.m. so it will be a loooonnnnngggg day before we arrive in Kelowna.

Would come back here in a heartbeat and tonight as we were walking past the top of Bourbon St for the final time we stopped for a few minutes to enjoy the brass band that was playing there and to watch the passers-by dancing in the middle of the street. It was a melancholy moment as we knew this was our last glimpse of this part of the city but at the same time it made me happy to think about them doing it all again tomorrow for someone else.

That’s it for this trip……….thanks for coming along all y’all,

Lorrie-Mae

Sunday, December 4, 2011

December 4, 2011

Into countdown mode now....but are focusing on the present. Still having lots of fun and every time we go out we see a new area.

Spent a little time with Antoine today. He is the resident ghost at a restaurant called Muriel's on Chartres St in the French Quarter. Back in the late 1800's when Muriel's Restaurant was Antoine's single family home (one of the largest in the Quarter)......he succumbed to one of his vices in the Quarter one evening and lost everything he had (including the family home) in a poker game. Instead of telling his family the truth....he retreated into a quiet corner on the 2nd floor of the home and took his own life (by hanging). To this day Muriel's staff keep a table for two complete with fresh bread and wine for Antoine and a guest and the room where Antoine drew his final breath is used exclusively for seances.

In addition to our visit with Antoine.....our time at Muriel's was spent over an amazing brunch of alligator hash with a mimosa to chase it down. Another great meal! The dessert for our brunch consisted of an amazing jazz trio who floated from room to room in the restaurant. Touring the home/restaurant was another highlight as we spent some time in the seance room as well as out on the largest balcony in the Quarter looking over Jackson Square and all the activity there.

From there we were off the French Market and of course checked out dozens of new shops along the way. New Orleans is definitely a shoppers paradise!

After the shopping Verna-Lee, Val, and I took off for a 3:00 appointment with Catherina of New Orleans.....one of the premier psychics in this part of the world that is so well known for it's psychics. I was first and after some interesting dialogue between Catherina and her grand-daughter, Ashley, my reading was underway. I chose to have my palm read, my tea leaves read, and in keeping with where we were....to include a ju ju bag reading. Catherina has been doing this for 42 of her 64 years and after my reading....I must say that there is a reason she has been doing it for so long. I won't go into too much detail but suffice it to say that I may be a little opinionated and not suffer fools lightly. I also learned that I may have a little too much orange in my life so.....better think of a new colour for that feature wall in my living room.....time for a change anyway :) Catherina is doing up a chart for me so I'll go see her again tomorrow afternoon to pick up the rest of my reading. Verna-Lee also had a reading and she went with the palm, the ju ju bag, and a crystal ball. She too enjoyed the experience and found a little wisdom in Catherina's words. All in all....it was another great memory and some adventure to add to our trip.

Tonight we all decided on something a little more upscale for dinner so located The Court of Two Sisters Restaurant where we had an amazing meal and the ambiance was out of this world! We were just steps off the chaos of Bourbon St but the courtyard where we had our meal was magical with a stillness and calm that encouraged us to relax into the experience. Before we knew what had happened more than two hours had passed and we were still enjoying dinner! Their menu was extensive but for the Christmas season, New Orleans has a tradition of offering up a special fixed price meal that I decided to go with. It consisted of turtle soup, followed by fried green tomatoes topped with shrimp and crabmeat, with pork tenderloin for the main, and eggnog crème caramel topped with a shortbread cookie for dessert. The entire meal was outstanding but that pork tenderloin and the sweet potato sauce that accompanied it was out of this world!!

The outdoor courtyard where we enjoyed our meal was magical as I mentioned but it was also beautiful. At it’s centre there was an above ground well that looked like it came straight out of a story book. Overhead there were miles of wisteria wound over a lattice that supported it. Fairy lights were intertwined with the wisteria and the tables that dotted the cobblestone yard sparkled as the lights were reflected in the glassware that was featured on the pristine white tablecloths. Servers were all professional and we enjoyed both Victor, our main server, and Anton, our busboy.

As we were leaving the restaurant, we discovered that The Court of Two Sisters also has a Charmed Gate that was blessed and shipped in from Spain (when Spain was the ruling power here). This magical gate is said to offer a charm to all who touch it so all of us practically intertwined our limbs through it in the hope that a little of that magic would rub off on us too.

In keeping with the flavor of the day….we had a leisurely stroll back to the hotel stopping at shops that were still open (this is a night time city!) and to sit on the steps of the Louisiana Supreme Courthouse (a very grand building) so we could enjoy the solo saxophonist who was playing for anyone who wanted to listen from across the street. Music is so much a part of this city and it has become apparent to all of us that the French Quarter is the heartbeat of the city. We’ve all begun to really feel the beat of the music and there is no doubt that we’ll each take away some of the flavor of this experience deep within our souls and perhaps leave a little piece of our hearts behind on the cobblestone streets of the Quarter too.

Till next time,
Lorrie-Mae

Saturday, December 3, 2011

December 3, 2011

Final day of Conference today so are back on vacation as of this afternoon :) Conference had lots of good content but I have to admit that I'm glad to have the days free to explore more of this very cool city. We just have a couple more of them and don't want to miss out on anything!

There was a Christmas parade today and Miss Verna and I lost one another for a while. There are soooo many people and if you take your eyes off one another for even a second.....the other person will be swallowed by the crowd. Fortunately, we had a happy ending but not before some time had passed and I had resorted to taking my jacket off, standing on tip toe to see above the sea of heads, and waving my arms like a crazy person in the hope that she'd be able to see me from across the street where I was pretty sure she'd been 'swallowed".

Today for lunch, Verna-Lee and I went to a place called Deanie's for a bowl of their world famous shrimp and okra gumbo and it was so good that 7 of us went back there for dinner tonight! The meal begins with a plate of potatoes (with butter of course) that have been boiled in the shrimp pot with a bunch of spices.....what an appetizer! To tell the truth...the potatoes are so good that they could be the main course.

Deanie's is in the French Quarter and for our first visit this afternoon Verna-Lee and I found it by taking a short detour through the Ritz Carlton Hotel where we also located a beautiful spa, a much needed and very oppulent bathroom, and a gorgeous fountain.....NICE!!!!

Before dinner tonight 5 of us went to the IMAX where we saw a film called Hurricane on the Bayou. Am very glad to have seen this picture as it gave amazing insight into the bayou area that we toured on an airboat just a few days ago. The film also gave lots of information on the tragedy of Katrina and of the even worse tragedy that has been going on for the past century. The wetlands surrounding this part of the USA are disappearing at an alarming rate (due to human interferance) leaving no protection for the storms when they blow in from the ocean. It is almost a surity that there will be another storm like Katrina and unless there are protective measures in place....it will be a repeat of 8 years ago. They're trying to re-establish some of the wetlands through small rock walls in the ocean, a series of dams along the Mississippi (to encourage it to deposit some of the soil it carries back where it was meant to before man messed things up), and the planting of mangrove seedlings to create a root system that will help hold what is still there in place when the next storm comes along. Anyway....it was a really good film and oh ya.....even better because when you go to the show here you get to have a dacquiri with your popcorn!!

Walked the soles off our shoes again today/tonight....through the French Quarter, the French Market, the River Walk, back and forth, back and forth.....we've resorted to anti-inflamitories to dull the pain and even at that....are ready for bed again tonight.

till next time,
Lorrie-Mae

Friday, December 2, 2011

December 2, 2011

TGIF! Everyone is pretty much done in after three long days of the conference behind us!! But...... we've all found sessions that were interesting so everything is good too. One more day to go and then we're back to vacation mode again :)

After the final session of the day and a short stop in our rooms we were off for the evening. Tonight the plan was to go to Red Fish, a restaurant on Bourbon St where they're known for their oysters, red fish (of course) and double chocolate bread pudding (yummy!). This is the place that Charmaine Neville (jazz performer from the other night) recommended as a MUST before leaving N.O. (for the bread pudding of course) so we had to make the stop and as you may have guessed....we had to try the pudding (along with a bunch of other stuff). Verna-Lee and I both ordered the flounder and what a dish that was!!! That fish was so big it extended off our platter sized plates!!! We had to leave so much behind...what a shame! Everyone enjoyed their meals and I must admit that right behind the bread pudding (my favourite) was the deep fried green beans that accompanied the flounder on the "I gotta have that again!" list.

After dinner, Nancy A, Verna-Lee, Caroline from Ottawa, and I chose to walk off some of our dinner so hit Bourbon St again and what a difference a day makes! Where last night it was busy but comfortable....tonight was CRAZY busy! Not as busy as it had been for the Bayou Classic last weekend but it is easy to see that there is a distinct difference between weekdays and weekends for the businesses located in the Quarter.

Wandered and shopped until we met up with a trio of acapella fellows who gifted us two songs on Royal Street (and who Nancy A bought a CD from). They were amazing!! New Orleans really is magical for the music that lives here. It is on almost every street corner and in every bar. You hear it coming from every shop and hotel you stop at and it seems that everyone here can sing or play an instrument! Young and old alike....the musical culture is tangible and street performers are everywhere. The other night there was even a group of young boys making music (good music) with a bunch of upside down plastic buckets (drums) and drumsticks. They were amazing! There are guys of all ages tapping their hearts out on the sidewalk as you pass and I'm not sure what it is they have on the bottom of their shoes but it almost looks like the top of a tin can stuck to their feet. Am going to have to either ask one of them or do some research I guess......

Anyway.....time to call it a day.....tomorrow is final day of conference and that wake up call comes awfully early when you're sharing a bathroom and have to be showered and ready for an 8:00 a.m. start!

later,
Lorrie-Mae

Thursday, December 1, 2011

December 1, 2011

Full day of conference - lots of good info but it's hard to sit in the sessions all day after having been spoiled by the freedom we've had since our arrival here.

8 of us met up after the sessions finished today and hit the town for dinner at La Bayou again where several of us enjoyed their delicious rendition of shrimp and grits with a few fried green tomatoes thrown in for good measure.

After dinner we wandered Bourbon St and played tour guide to the newbies in the group. Nothing too exciting happened until on the way back to our hotel....all hell broke loose when I took my camera out (oh yes...I should admit here that when I'm walking in the Quarter I don't carry any kind of a purse. I keep all my money, and my camera, on my person....and I'll leave the "where" to your imagination). Anyway.....I started to retrieve my camera when beads began to rain from the sky. They were coming from every direction and in every colour under the rainbow. They hit me in the head, on the arm, in the back, in the head again......it was crazy!!

Survived and managed to pick up a couple of strands as souvenirs. Jeez....I wonder what would have happened had I gone for my Master Card?! LOL!!

Great music on the streets again tonight with lots of good energy to support it. Big Al Carson was performing at the Funky Pirate again tonight so we stopped outside the door there to listen for a bit....we wandered up a little further and stopped outside an open window to listen to another group and so on and so on up the street.

All in all....another fun filled night in the Big Easy. We're feeling a lot like locals after having been here for this long and loving every minute of it.

Back at the hotel, there was a group of guys here for another conference (there are 2 or 3 conferences in this hotel right now) and they invited Miss Verna and I up to their hospitality suite where we'd be introduced to partying the likes of which we'd surely never experienced before. We declined of course (like the sweet southern belles we are) and instead signed up to become members of the Starwood Preferred Guest club (some kind of hotel promo) which means that we now have complimentary internet in our room.....yeah!!!! I don't have to go down to the lobby to post to my blog. This is much more relaxing.....p.j.'s and a glass of wine make for a much better post than a rushed post from a public venue where the drinks cost about $15/each!!

Till next time,
Lorrie-Mae

November 30, 2011

Still haven’t been able to post yesterday’s missive but better get something down tonight before calling it a night so here goes…….

First day of Conference is behind us. The day flew by and everyone enjoyed their sessions but……. we’re all a little shell shocked from having to sit in a session and exercise our brain all day after having a full week of nothing but play. I had lunch with a woman from Kentucky. Her name was Barbara and she is a Dominican Sister. She works with a private college and has only been doing that work for about 1 year. She had lots of questions and I was able to help her out a little as her area is much like the Okanagan in that she serves multiple communities some of which are very small. She is very fortunate though as her college doesn’t expect that she will break even (although that expectation will likely come in time).

We did manage to make it out to the street for a little while again tonight where we had another really fun time. Helena-Marie and Jenny-Ann took Linda-Kay, Verna-Lee, and I to their favourite place – Pink Berries – an all-natural frozen yogurt spot they discovered a few days ago and where they manage to visit daily!!

After Pink Berries we ambled back over to the French Quarter where we stopped in to Pat O’Briens to once again check out the dueling pianos. Lots of people and some pretty good music but Verna-Lee, Linda-Kay, and I decided to head out a little while before the other two were ready to go. They should have come with us though as we managed to find a little more adventure on our way back to the hotel. Bourbon St was great tonight. Just the right amount of people, lots of beads being thrown from the balconies, music coming from every venue along the strip, and smiling faces everywhere you looked. It really is amazing that there are people walking everywhere with their drinks in hand but I think I’ve only seen a couple of people, the whole time I’ve been here, who have had a little too much!

Tomorrow’s sessions start at 8:00 a.m. so it’ll be an early wake-up call!

Till next time,

Lorrie-Mae

November 29, 2011

Another leisurely morning – gotta love vacations!!

Rode the green coloured St Charles streetcar (recognized as a national treasure and one of the two oldest in the US) down St Charles Street and into the Garden District where all the magnificent homes we had driven by during our tour are. St Charles Street and Royal Street are the same road except that St Charles is on the American side of Canal St and Royal is on the French side.

From St Charles and the Garden District we walked over to Magazine Street (supposed to be full of good shops and boutiques – but not many that we could find!) Did manage to find an amazing pizza place though (Rocky’s) so tried a shrimp etouffe pizza and yes…it was delish but….not as delish as the salad dressing! It was some mixture of oil and vinegar and balsamic and blue cheese over a simple romaine and tomato salad and I would go back to find the place just to have another salad!
From Magazine we walked back over to St Charles to do some more of the garden district and en route stumbled across Sandra Bullock’s home. What a gorgeous place that is!! Miss Verna put on her best southern accent, rang the bell and wouldn’t you know it……the gardener came out and gave us a tour! Well…..at least that’s what we told Helena-Marie and Jenny-Ann but in truth….we just thought about ringing the bell and I’m sure that if the gardener had been there he would have come out all right…but with a shot gun!

Ambling along St Charles is a bit like walking near the pyramids where you’re in constant danger of tripping on uneven ground….…you have to look down almost as much as you look up as the sidewalks are so disrupted by the roots of the ancient trees that line the streets in this area. It really is gorgeous though and there is a kind of quiet calm that you feel when you’re walking there.

Just as we were nearing the end of the Garden District on St Charles, we came across a place called the House of Broel and according to a sign on the fence, visitors were welcome between 10-5. Since it was just 4:40….we decided to check it out. We opened the gate and passed a fellow in the yard who gave us the once over. We went up the stairs to the front door and turned the antique handle. As the door was opening into the entry of the home….it occurred to me that this might not really be open to the public and that we might be entering someone’s home! A woman came out of the back of the house and said, “can I help you?” She too was looking at us rather oddly which left both Verna-Lee and I feeling like we may have just made a huge error and that the police might be called momentarily…..how would we ever explain this one?!

But to cut to the end of the story….Bonnie Broel does live in the house but she also does offer tours of her home as well as rent out sections of it for weddings (she had 100 there last year alone!) By the time we said good bye to Bonnie (more than an hour later) she was giving us a hug and a kiss good bye and we both felt like we had just stepped back to a time where traditional southern hospitality was alive and well. In addition to touring Bonnie’s home, we also learned that she is a countess, an author, a dress designer, winner of an international economic development award, we’d seen a photo of her and Tom Hanks, AND…..she was queen of Mardi Gras on two separate occasions! Her house is filled with doll houses that she has spent a lifetime making. Her grandfather was Russian royalty (hence the countess title) and her father started the first frog farm and canning factory in the south. We’re not sure how many times she’s been married but 3 at least and 1 of those husbands died in Egypt while on vacation there and where she had to travel to retrieve his body. She had more vintage wedding (and other fancy dresses) in her house…..it truly is a museum and an interesting one at that. The house was originally too small for the first owners so they raised the ground floor by 21 feet and put another floor underneath it. Ceilings are all 15 feet high and there was a massive original gas chandelier hanging in the foyer as we entered. Two other points of interest that I can’t let pass are: In the throne room off the dressing room for the brides who rent the space…the toilet does actually look like a throne and you lift the seat of the throne to find the toilet! Also, as she took us up to the second floor……there seemed to nowhere else to go until she pushed on the wall and a hallway opened up inviting us to continue on into the second story and eventually to the third floor.
After saying good bye to Bonnie, we caught the street car back to Canal Street and by the time we got back to our room and figured out just where the day had gone….we realized we had walked for a full seven hours! No wonder we were both beat and ready to call it a night.

Tomorrow morning our Conference begins so will get this posted as soon as I can but the next few days are going to be filled with learning and connecting with others who are doing the same.

Till next time,

Lorrie-Mae